Days 11 – 13: From Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi

It was time to head to the northern part of Vietnam – which meant to spend three days and two nights on one single train. I managed to organise a soft-sleeper ticket (1,475,000,- Dong) for this trip which guaranteed a more or less comfortable ride to Hanoi. The train left at 11pm and it was the first time I would sleep in a bed on a train, enjoying all the comfort that comes with it. However, I would sleep in the upper bed, which is only slightly cheaper than the lower bed, but lower beds were all booked anyway. There are five different classes of train travel in Vietnam: hard seat, soft seat, hard sleeper, soft sleeper (normal) and soft sleeper (air-con). When buying a ticket, I usually based my decisions on the availability and the duration of the trip. In general, conditions in hard seat and soft seat can be extremely rough!

My berth (upper bed) and some room to store luggage

Before boarding, I went to the locomotive and found the doors to the engines open – a good chance to take a few pictures of these guys that would drag this immense array of coaches all the way up to Hanoi. When I arrived in my compartment I met the other passengers who have already been in their beds, ready to sleep. The beds seemed to be ok and there was plenty of space for my luggage in a small niche next to my (upper) berth. I was lucky with my compartment mates – they were all friendly and there were no troubles during the ride. Before you arrive in your cabin, you never know with whom you have to share it – it’s always a surprise. Sometimes it’s a family with a baby, crying all night/day long – so, in this case I was really lucky. I might also be a merchant who stuffed the whole compartment with goods or even livestock!

One of my cabin-mates already sleeping

I woke up at around 10am next morning and began to explore the train, walking from coach to coach. Sometimes I got off the train at the stops to buy water or food from one of the people selling all kinds of stuff just outside of the train. There were also people on the train with small trolleys or bags selling food and drinks.

One of the many traders at the countless stops

Since theft can be a problem it is recommended to book a bottom bunk which allows you to stow the luggage underneath the berth. Otherwise it makes sense to secure the luggage to something for the duration of the trip. However, every time I left my compartment to use the toilet or to jump off to buy food, I just left my backpack unsecured in the niche next to the upper berth and took all the valuables on me in a small shoulder bag.

Selling food and drinks on the train

Later this day, in the afternoon, the landscape changed from rice plantations to a dramatic mountain scenery. The train slowly began to climb up steep mountains which reside just next to the coastline – both, the mountains and the coastline provided a stunning view. The train literally “ate” its way through the thick vegetation (see gallery at the bottom) and sometimes small trees and branches were scratching along the coaches.

Every 5-10 minutes the train passed by small checkpoints

Every five to ten minutes the train passed small railway checkpoints usually occupied by one person who was waving a flag, especially before and after a tunnel. The train made its way up the mountains extraordinary slowly which allowed passengers to jump off the train in the middle of nowhere, while it was still going.

People jumping of the train while it was moving slowly uphill

I’m not an expert on railway construction, but the steep terrain, the many arched bridges and artificial platforms made the whole section appear like a railway construction masterpiece. After one or two hours the train finally arrived back at sea level height and went along vast flat areas, sometimes just next to the coast.

Back at sea level height, cruising along the coastline

After one more night, I eventually arrived in Hanoi at around 6am in the morning – ready for some breakfast!

Arriving in Hanoi after three days on this train

Days: 11, 12, 13
Date: 12.04.2011 – 14.04.2011

Impressions of the Train Ride from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi

More photos of my trip: Picasa Web Album